This is a lovely old hotel with 14 rooms and a fabulous restaurant that is like staying in a private house with the sophistication of a fine hotel.

Situated in a romantic palazzo built on the remains of a first-century Roman temple in the centre of town, the current owner’s family have lived there since 1788. Every guest room is named after an angel. Our favourite is Arcangelo Custode, a glorious bedroom with terracotta tiles, lavender walls and a cupola frescoed with musical instruments. The bathroom is simply decorated in cheerful striped tiles and has a vintage Venetian mirror.

The delicious breakfast takes place in the family dining room where a portrait of the owner’s ancestor Pope Leo XII watches over you. We feasted on homemade Umbrian jam tarts, fresh croissants filled with marmalade and soft pecorino before setting off to explore the nearby towns of Assisi, Spello and Spoleto.

Outside there is a tiny secret garden filled with antique roses, a wisteria cloaked pergola, and bamboo Chinese Chippendale chairs to collapse in with an aperitivo before dinner.

Bevagna is a hidden gem, off the beaten track and rather than open to every tourist in sight offers a delightful insight into local life.